Sweet Home Moravia
Elegant climb in excellent ,,Chamonix? rock! One of the best routes on Lofoten! Very sustained, with interesting free climbing and exciting aiding (pitons are necessary!). First pitch is very scary but the rest of the route is well-protected. Descent: to the little pass between higher and lower summit, then follow grassy ledges in east face to its end. Then one small (20m) abseil and easy scrambling direct down.
Øystein Andresen and Samuli Pekkanen opened the west face of Brosmetind on July 29th, 2010. The wall is only accessible by abseil. There is a bolted rappell anchor on the big ledge at the top of the wall. Fix the rope halfway down, at the second belay (on the Marlboro ledge) of Sonata Arctica. The wall is almost vertical, with flaky rock rich on holds, which gives steep, but easy face climbing. Slightly serious, due to the amount of loose rock, but good protection. Sonata Arctica takes the most obvious line up the central wall, with belays on comfortable ledges away from the drop line of potentially falling rock from the leader.Pitch 1: From the base, one small step leads to easy scramling up to a big ledge. 30 m, 4-.Pitch 2: A short crack to The Axe (sharp flake), then steep face climbing to the dihedral that runs to the Marlboro ledge. 35 m, 5+.Pitch 3: Beautiful, sustained face climbing to a small roof-traverse, then easier up right to a slabby ledge. 35 m, 6/6+.Pitch 4: Obvious handcrack to a roof, traverse left (or climb the offwidth directly), then a loose dihedral up to the final overhang with loose blocks that tops out on the rappell ledge. 30 m, 6-/6.