Ultima Thule
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Fylke
Troms
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Område
Kvaløya
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Fjell
Blåmann
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Type
Mountain/Alpine
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Length (m)
350 m
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Utstyr
trad
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Aid grad
A1
Time: First ascent took 40 h. calculate around 20.
Gear: Portaledge, Some more small stuff, and perhaps some knifeblades. One extra friend in size 3 or 4 can come handy on the last pitch. The route follows the left end of the wall, a few meters further left the wall changes character dramatically.
- 55 m, A1: Start by enjoying the finger crack in the left wall of the large right facing dihedral, pass a double roof on the left side and then continue straight up. Take stand in a horizontal crack a few meter below the «Nose».
- 30 m, A1: Thin climbing up flaky terrain into the dihedral just right of the Nose, with stand on a small ledge.
- 45 m, A1: Travers out right to a good crack, maybe easier done in free. Easy up the crack, pass a ledge and continue up a widening dihedral, stand.
- 45 m, A1: Climb large dihedral, pass a roof on your left.
- 60 m, A1: Climb the left crack covered wall of the dihedral, up to easy but akward terrain that leads you left to the routes first proper ledge. Enjoy the view.
- 45 m, A1: Climb the right leaning crack up to a big roof. Travers out right to a wide crack.
- Easy but akward and slippery to the top.