Livet under kniven
Time: 1st ascent took three and a half days. Calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, the normal set of Blåmann gear plus some extra stuff in the small category, a few birdbeaks and copperheads.
- 40 m, A2: Begin in black dihedral between Atlantis and Ultima Thule. Look for «Kniven» (the «knife») on the second pitch, you should start in the plumb line right of this. Follow dihedral to a small overhang, travers out left and continue to a new overhang with a flake.
- 30 m, A2: Climb left below roof, then a technical section follows into the dihedral right of «Kniven». Climb dihedral up where chimney starts, and swing out to stand. As a variant one can continue up the dihedral without any swing.
- 45 m, A2: Continue same dihedral a few meters (A2) before swinging out to the chimney. Climb the chimney up to where a crack appears in the left face of the dihedral. Follow the crack up to a small roof, go right and up good crack.
- 50 m, A1: From ledge climb up dihedral up to new ledge with a large rock. Continue slightly left up a tight dihedral, take stand on ledge.
- 50 m, A1/A2: Climb steep and tight dihedral up to slab. Follow the rim of the slab up to where an overhanging crack in the dihedral wall begins. Climb crack up to small roof and travers right into a large (wet) dihedral that ends in a large roof. Travers left around the roof in tight cracks, and take poor stand below next small roof.
- 40 m, C1: From stand, climb over edge, and continue cracks and dihedrals towards the top.
- 30 m, C1: Climb up to large roof below the top, go left and follow the easiest path along the edge towards the top.