Disko 2000

Added by WebAdmin

Time: 1st ascent took five days. However, the winter conditions steals time, and we only climbed during the few hours of daylight. 2 days is a better estimate for summer.
Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 10-20 Copperheads, 6 Knifeblades, 6 LA’s and 6 U-bolts, a few rurps and beaks, several hooks (bat hook to very large), 2 each of cams from #00 Metolius to #4 Camelot, 2 set of RP’s. (winter: 2 spectre).

• 40 m, A1: The start (and the two first pitches) is shared with Arctandria. Look for a large dihedral, vertically aligned with the top, which reaches an obvious roof after about 90m. That beautiful dihedral is the first two pitches, and there are few possibilities of getting off-route here. Go for the ledge.
• 50 m, A2, 2-5 copperheads, many #1-#2 friends: From the ledge, follow that small left-facing dihedral 3m, and then take a step right into the main dihedral. What now follows is a sustained and absolutely marvelous pitch up to the large obvious roof above. At the roof, there are 2 bolts, and Arctandria takes stand there, however, you should continue on the traverse to the left under the roof (Arctandria continues right of the roof), maybe you need to back-clean to have enough friends for the travers (A1). Take stand at the leftmost corner of the roof
• 40 m, A2+, 5 copperheads, 4 bird-beaks/rurps, knifeblades, hooks and General Snus (Made in Sweden, only for addict’s): This is the crux-pitch of the route. Follow the «crack to seam to vague feature»-thing which brings you towards left and into the bottom of a left-faced dihedral. Go towards the roof, just below it the dihedral starts to fade away and its time for you to make a 3m pendulum to the left into the neighboring crack, bring a #2 Camelot on the swing. Again, start climbing towards the roof, but traverse left where the crack disappears, towards the leftmost corner of the roof. Now a section of steep climbing on dice placements follows through the series of small overhangs. We added 2 drilled 8mm bolts on this section. A thin seam takes you a bit rightwards again, to the belay stance (one 8mm and one 10mm bolt) a few meters short of the next roof.
• 40 m, A1: Via a bathook you enter the small dihedral which is the door to the Kalk og Gummi-roof. Frightening at distance, the climbing proves to be easy through the roof. Where a crack provides plenty of possible placements. Next a right-faced dihedral brings you to a small roof which you traverse towards the right under, up and into a well protected maze of cracks and small overlaps that ends up in a clean crack. Make a stand where the crack ends and you obviously have to change to the crack left of you, use both to build the belay.
• 35 m, A2: Climb up the dihedral/slot and continue in easy terrain through two right-faced short dihedrals. The last ends in a small roof, which you pass and enter a short crux section involving a hook and a copperhead before you enter a discontinuous shallow crack. After a few meters it gets better, but it soon fades away in the steep wall ahead of you, therefore you must make a pendulum (2m) to the dihedral right of you. Up that dihedral to where it ends in a roof, there you go right to a horizontal crack that cuts an obvious pillar. Build a belay, medium-sized U-bolts are useful. We placed a 8mm bolt to hang our portaledge from here.
• 50 m, A1: Cross the pillar and into the right-faced dihedral, straightforward climbing up to a small ledge, continue through the small dihedral and crack up to a «block» upon which you find a small ledge in the bottom of a larger dihedral. Belay. «li» 50 m, A1: The dihedral starts out steep, but soon you should enter the crack that splits the right wall, and up to a large ledge (difficult to pass without the spectre’s in wintertime). Now a sloping dihedral leads you up a very steep short section, split by a good crack. Climb the following dihedral up to the small roof and make a stand.
• 55 m, A1: Now you are partially forced into the steep chimney, summertime this might be easier to climb in free, so be prepared for a tight exit. Atop of the chimney a horizontal crack takes you right to a sloping ledge. From here you just follow the obvious line to the top. We drifted a bit towards the left, but maybe you can reach the Steinman at the top directly.