Time: 1st ascent took nearly three days, calculate 1-2 days.
Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 4 Copperheads, 4 Knifeblades, 2 LA’s and one pecker. The route follows the steep pillar thaArctandria.
- 50 m, A2, 1 copperhead, 1 L.A. 1 knifeblade: Begin right of the routes plumb line, exactly where the steep path joins the large ledge below the wall. Climb through a flaky overhang, then head slightly left to a small overhang, travers and then up. Change over to your right via a couple of delicate hook/fri moves to the bottom of a clear left-facing dihedral. Take stand at the top of the dihedral.
- 50 m, A3, 1 pecker: «The Diamond pitch». Follow the next dihedral pass the «svarta tårarna» (black tears), up to a dihedral/crack system that leads to the left end of the big roof. 1 m to the right a thin crack leads through the roof. Continue up a dihedral and take stand on a sloping ledge.
- 45 m, C1+/5-6: Climb up the thin bow and in to the large open dihedral, continue pass a large double ledge and a flake to a stand on a small ledge about where the dihedral changes to a chimney.
- 45 m, C1/7: Climb out right to a vertical crack which leads to the pillar, round the corner. Follow the pillar via a crack system up to sloping ledge.
- 60 m, C1+/7-: Follow right leaning crack system up to a small ledge below a slab. Travers left on an expanding flake at the top of the slab (better in free). Continue up along nice cracks to a double ledge and a good stand.
- 50 m, 5+: Up the steep crack above the ledge, climb left in to a big steep dihedral. Over a ledge and through a gentle dihedral up to a giant ledge (stand) 10 m scrambling to the top.