Atlantis
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Fylke
Troms
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Område
Kvaløya
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Fjell
Blåmann
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Type
Mountain/Alpine
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Length (m)
400
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Utstyr
trad
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Norsk grad
8
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Aid grad
A2-
Per Hustad and Johan Nilsson free climbed the route (8-/8) in July 1990. This was a ground braking accomplishment at that time, but a ground-up — without pre-placed gear — complete free ascent still awaits. The two first pitches were free climbed in the early 80’ies by H.-C. Doseth. First winter ascent by Sjur Nesheim and Øystein Cruikschank in 1986. The route follow the main weakness in the wall just left of the top, and goes fairly straight up. Time: 20 h. (fastest ascent: 8h 15m)
- 55 m, A1, 7/7+: Start by a block pile/pillar that leads up to a smal overhang. Pass a small ledge and continue up nice layback. Some loose rock.
- 55 m, A1/A2, 8: Up layback to a slopy ledge below the the banana shaped overhang. Climb the thin crack system in the left wall. Thin acrobatic climbing.
- 40 m, A1, 7/7+: Stamina requiring effort up the steep and long dihedral
- 50 m, A1, 6+: Short travers out the bivy ledge, then straight up slightly easier terrain.
- 30 m, A1, 8-: Another short travers/jump out on ledge. Then thin hard crack climbing up towards large chimney system.
- 30 m, A1/A2, 6+: Wet offwidth climbing up the chimney. Belay on ledge.
- 50 m, A1/A2, 7-: From right side of ledge, climb up serie of steep dihedrals.
- 30 m, A1, 6+: Continue to the top.