Arctandria
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Fylke
Troms
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Område
Kvaløya
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Fjell
Blåmann
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Type
Mountain/Alpine
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Length (m)
400
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Utstyr
trad
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Aid grad
A2+
All pitches were free climbed by Didier Berthod and Giovanni Quinci in August 2005, but ground-up free ascent without any pre-placed gear remains undone. This is a classic aid route — one of the hardest in Norway in its time. The second pitch is a rare gem of solid continuous climbing, the best there is. Route begins with the very obvious open dihedral nearly straight down under the top, it then traverses right in two consequent large roofs. The route then goes slightly right to gain less steep terrain the last pitches. Time: 2-3 days. This is a tricky route, and people have drilled protection here, please do not continue this tradition. Bring copperheads, hooks and knifeblades.
- 45 m, A1/A2, 8: Start up slightly flaky terrain, with a crux just before reaching a small roof. Go left of the roof, and up a beautiful layback to a stand on a fairly good ledge. Some old bolts on the belay.
- 40 m, A2+, 9-/9: Up the very obvious and extremely attractive open dihedral. Dead solid but sparse with protection. Stand just right of first large roof.
- 30 m, A1, 8/8+: Short pitch up to the huge roof, Tromsøflaket.
- 20 m, A1, 9-: Travers right under the roof.
- 15 m, A1, 8-: Short pitch up to the next large roof, which is kind of an inverted staircase.
- 25 m, A2, 8+: Go right of inverted staircase up to the beginning of a large dihedral.
- 50 m, A1/A2, 8: Climb large dihedral.
- 25 m, A1/A2, 7+:
- 25 m, A1/A2, 7-:
- 50 m, A1/A2, 7: Long dihedral with roof at the top.
- around 100 m, easy: