You were reading right, Doug Scott teamed up with our local hero Sjur Nesheim to bag this first ascent.
The true classic Grøtfjord test piece, a must for the aspiring alpinist. Starts with a full pitch of 70-80° alpine ice in the middle of the wall that ends on a snowy ramp leading left. The final pitch is on the slab to the right of the direct line, thin ice that usually takes scarce protection. The apt description by the first ascentionists is very true: surpringsly beautiful! A direct finish byØ. Cruikshank and B. Solbakk follows the steep gully at the end straight up.
Follows the gully in the left side of the wall.
Start by circumventing a roof (sometimes carrying an icicle) on the left side, then up on 40-50° snow with some short steeper sections. Finish through narrow gully with vertical climbing sequences.
Start on the left side of the wall in a narrow gully to the right of the large gorge. Travers right 2 pitches then up on moderately steep alpine ice and snow. The climbing then steepens (70-80°) and gets narrower. Then travers slightly rights on a large ledge and enter a gully leading to the top.
Outlines the right side of the main north face. Traverse left on a ledge midways up the wall, and then heads slightly right over steep bulge and thin alpine ice (crux). Follows the ridge to the top. Easy climbing in moderate terrain with one difficult section.
A collection of summer and winter routes are gathered around the col between Breitind and Zapffetoppen. The southpillar contains a very nice and solid beginner route of an extraordinary quality for the grade («b»Sørpillaren«/b»: 4, S. Nesheim & S. Spjelkavik). Furthest east is a short steep ice wall that continues in a gully to the top. The ridge itself provides nice climbing.
Follows the rightmost of three gullies to the left of the main pillar. Easy climbing on snow and some alpine ice.
Parallel to the Osnes/Enevold route, but steeper and harder.
Some steep and short sections in the beginning, then the route goes slightly right were the main gully turns left.
Marked S-shaped gully in the left side of the wall, easy climbing on moderately steep snow. The final part along the ridge towards the top requires roped climbing.
The icicle seldomly forms, and rumours say that the most eager ice climbers used to hang ropes in the stream to help the ice to form – but never succeeded. 60 m freestanding steep ice. The icicle was broken halfway during the first ascent, and the lower part had leaned towards back wall during the second ascent (Børge Solbakk and Kurt Kaspersen).
Follows the obvious dark streak just left of Kjølsvinet. Thin and poorly protected ice climbing the first two pitches, steep. Once the gully have been reached, the rest of the route is easy snow at moderate angle, except from the very end before accessing the top ridge. Named in the memory of Børge who inspired all of us with his wits and guts.
Same start as Hårek, but traverse further right along the initial ledge, then up natural line.
Follow the right edge of Munin.
Frittstående markert islinje på glatt, bratt og bar granitt.
Joakim G Eide
Starter i dyp slukt. Utsatt for steinsprang ved mildt vær. Markant rygg i fjordboten, mange linjer i omr.
Lang og variert alpintur i storslotte formasjonsrike omgivelser, Topper ut i skar på rygg ved pillartopp.
Joakim G Eide
Hengefjellet, 10km nord for Skibotn. Vertikal vedvarende isklatring med masse formasjoner. Retur ved abalakover i is.
Joakim G Eide