De elendige

Best access to Stor Svaet, but also a nice, short, and easy accessible, route in itself. Layback at the crux. Two variants (‘svake mennesker’) follows the nice formations just right of this route.


Take the first dihedral to the left of the groove below Stor Svaet. Follow nice cracks about 30m, round a corner and up a small slab, to reach the bottom left corner of Stor Svaet.

Rena Ragnarok

Free variant of Hans Christian Doseth’s Ragnarok (1980-07-24 5 pitches, 5/A2), which avoids the pendelum in to Run Amok and continues through Halvmånen on very thin ground (long fall potential, steep). Third pitch starts with a steep fingery crack, then traverses out right to a psychological crux and ends with a steep section at the very end of Halvmånen – Treasures 60 meter. Bring some small RP’s and perhaps a small Alien. Several finger-sized friends are nice to have on the third pitch.


Follows the left of two ‘twin-cracks’ that begins at the bottom of Halvmånen. Sustained crack climbing takes you right and into Halvmånediedret (half-moon dihedral), where it joins Svart Hav for 10 m. Shares the last pitch with Svart Hav, which is one of the best finger crack pitches around.

Svart hav

(1’st free: Hans Chr. Doseth og Tom Pedersen, July 1981) Slightly tuffer mentally than other routes, with bold climbing the first two pitches.

Flygende Hollender

(1’st free: Eva Selin og Anders Lundahl 1982-07-03) Follows the marked dihedral to the right of Halvmånen. Very sustained climbing with a beautiful bold finish, solid for its grade. This is a strongly recommended route.


(1’st free: Hans Chr. Doseth, Bjørn Braathen i juli 1981) Impressive 80 m long slightly overhanging hand-jam crack, easily seen just right of Halvmånen.


Trad climbing in sport apparel!, 3’d pitch negotiates unlikely yellow wall on jugs. Route ends dead blank 30 m below the top, and one need to traverse right in to Alexis/Alekos.


Solid layback in left leaning dihedral on third pitch (easily seen from below). Originally the route starts to the left of Alexis, but the Alexis start is very nice.


Nice from the first meter, third pitch through the left leaning Bølgediedret (‘wavy-dihedral’) is extraordinary, save a nr. 1 cam to the finish of that dihedral.