(1’st free: Hans Chr. Doseth, Bjørn Braathen i juli 1981) Impressive 80 m long slightly overhanging hand-jam crack, easily seen just right of Halvmånen.


Trad climbing in sport apparel!, 3’d pitch negotiates unlikely yellow wall on jugs. Route ends dead blank 30 m below the top, and one need to traverse right in to Alexis/Alekos.


Solid layback in left leaning dihedral on third pitch (easily seen from below). Originally the route starts to the left of Alexis, but the Alexis start is very nice.


Nice from the first meter, third pitch through the left leaning Bølgediedret (‘wavy-dihedral’) is extraordinary, save a nr. 1 cam to the finish of that dihedral.


(1’s free: Hank Levine, Dag Kolsrud 1979-07-15) The layback pass Trekanttaket is powerful, and the absolutely classic hand jam crack, 40m-risset, is a must. This is the classic Baugen route.


Parallel to Silhuetten, circumvents Trekanttaket to the right, through some small overhangs. 3’rd pitch follows an obvious crack to the right of 40m-risset with a cruxy finish. Climb carefully pass the Giljotinen, hollow-sounding thin flake, on the fourth pitch.

Mannen med ljåen

Brute Æsthetic line through the scythe formed dihedral, Ljåen. Bring some 3 and 4 cams for the Man with the Scythe. The second pitch is an absolutely fantastic shallow finger crack.


Starts on left side of the ledge (on the south face really) where Vårrusen begins. 4’th grade scrambling up to the start. After the second pitch you cross over from the south- to the east-face, where you follow the right most crack through the slab. Thin delicate climbing.


First route up Baugen. Start at the characteristic block split in two with a chockstone in the crack. To gain the start to have to some 4’th grade scrambling up the ridge for about 70 meters.


Climb Flygande hollender to the bottom of the chimney and then right into the dihedral (7/7+) right of dark side of the moon. Belay at the ledge on top of Thanatos. Climb the double dihedral starting left of the ledge and up through the roofs on the right hand side (8-). Belay on small ledge. easy to top…


‘This is not America, but this is Baugen’.Beginning is shared with ‘Ragnarok’, but keeps going straight up, and slightly left, where ‘Ragnarok’ traverses right under the second roof on the third pitch. Continuous nice climbing with increasing difficulty, which culiminates with a nice crux at the’overlappen’.

Perler for svin

Start with the clearly visible right arching flake, with a triangular block, this pitch is a fine outing in itself. Avoid some loose blocks just right of the roof at the first belay. Steep cracks just below the entrance to the large chimney. Beware of piled blocks inside the chimney.