Follows the obvious dark streak just left of Kjølsvinet. Thin and poorly protected ice climbing the first two pitches, steep. Once the gully have been reached, the rest of the route is easy snow at moderate angle, except from the very end before accessing the top ridge. Named in the memory of Børge who inspired all of us with his wits and guts.
This is a variant of ‘Vesterveg’, with a more difficult and very technical crux at the beginning of the second pitch.
Excellent climbing for the late climber who wants to enjoy the midnight sun while climbing. Start at the foot of the pillar.
Follows the obvious left arete (when seen from the cabin) up to ‘Zapffetoppen’.
Best access to Stor Svaet, but also a nice, short, and easy accessible, route in itself. Layback at the crux. Two variants (‘svake mennesker’) follows the nice formations just right of this route.
Goes through the middle of Storsvaet, access it via De elendige. Nice exposed technical climbing.
Take the first dihedral to the left of the groove below Stor Svaet. Follow nice cracks about 30m, round a corner and up a small slab, to reach the bottom left corner of Stor Svaet.
Direct access to Stor Svaet, loose to begin with, steep at top.
Continuous thin jamming through the left most crack in Halvmånen.
Free variant of Hans Christian Doseth’s Ragnarok (1980-07-24 5 pitches, 5/A2), which avoids the pendelum in to Run Amok and continues through Halvmånen on very thin ground (long fall potential, steep). Third pitch starts with a steep fingery crack, then traverses out right to a psychological crux and ends with a steep section at the very end of Halvmånen – Treasures 60 meter. Bring some small RP’s and perhaps a small Alien. Several finger-sized friends are nice to have on the third pitch.
(1’st free: Hank Levine, Dag Kolsrud 1979-07-14) Nice straight-up climbing from bottom to top, thin fingery lay-back through the crux.
Follows the left of two ‘twin-cracks’ that begins at the bottom of Halvmånen. Sustained crack climbing takes you right and into Halvmånediedret (half-moon dihedral), where it joins Svart Hav for 10 m. Shares the last pitch with Svart Hav, which is one of the best finger crack pitches around.
(1’st free: Hans Chr. Doseth og Tom Pedersen, July 1981) Slightly tuffer mentally than other routes, with bold climbing the first two pitches.
(1’st free: Eva Selin og Anders Lundahl 1982-07-03) Follows the marked dihedral to the right of Halvmånen. Very sustained climbing with a beautiful bold finish, solid for its grade. This is a strongly recommended route.
Nice variation, a mini version of Thanatos.
Dark side of the Moon
Baugens only whole-hearted chimney.