Archive

Orvasskaret

A collection of summer and winter routes are gathered around the col between Breitind and Zapffetoppen. The southpillar contains a very nice and solid beginner route of an extraordinary quality for the grade («b»Sørpillaren«/b»: 4, S. Nesheim & S. Spjelkavik). Furthest east is a short steep ice wall that continues in a gully to the top. The ridge itself provides nice climbing.

Tjugofem

Marked S-shaped gully in the left side of the wall, easy climbing on moderately steep snow. The final part along the ridge towards the top requires roped climbing.

Smørstabbfossen

The icicle seldomly forms, and rumours say that the most eager ice climbers used to hang ropes in the stream to help the ice to form – but never succeeded. 60 m freestanding steep ice. The icicle was broken halfway during the first ascent, and the lower part had leaned towards back wall during the second ascent (Børge Solbakk and Kurt Kaspersen).

Tårnpilaren direkte

Starts to the right, on the same ledge, of «i»Tårnpilaren«/i», and the two crosses at the beginning of the steep section at the top. It then goes out left in the dihedral and climbs an airy line to the top.

Tårnpilaren

Climbs the dominant rock pillar from a grassy ledge about 300 m up. Moderate steepness to begin with, but the final third of the route rises steep and airy. Beautiful climbing. The approach, about 1/2 – 1 hour, takes the rather exposed and wet line to the left of the stream.

Midnattsolveggen

Surprisingly, just as its name says this wall only gets sun during a few hours in the heat of the summer night. A collection of 50-150 m long trad routes with some excellent and steep cracks. Seldomly climbed because of their grade (around 6 and 7), and the approach.