Starts up the dark overhanging wall slightly to the right of the hanging gully. One pitch of hard aid (bolted belay). Second pitch traverses left and up on thin unprotected alpine ice, then the route eases off and continues straight up the gully. Probably one of the most serious winter routes on Kvaløya.
Takes the distinct gully in the middle of the east face, but avoids the last steep section by heading right at the end. The bottom part of the gully is just a steep walk (the most part of the route was skied down by Mårten Blixt and Kjetil Longva in 1998), and the first ascentionists only roped up the last five pitches. Finish with snow flank to the right.
tarts in the rightmost of two distinctive thin gullies in lower part of the east face, then follows the obvious left leaning gully all the way up to the ridge. The gully is on the average about 50° steep, but there are several steep but short sections underways.
Easy scrambling/climbing up the north ridge. Usually used as a descent route, which involves a 40 m rappel.
Takes one of the clear lines in the snow covered and icy wall to the right of the more homogeneous and steep wall just below the top of Store Hollenderan. Steep alpine ice to begin with, then it follows a more classic snowy gully up to the ridge.
Steep and nice line up the ruling left facing dihedral, not so much ice.
Original route starts far right on same ledge as Tårnpilaren, and follows a clear, thin and steep couloir that sweeps gently right. The original route finishes of by traversing right on a snow flank a few pitches below the top, and thereby avoiding the steepest section. The direct line, bottom to top, was climbed by Øystein Cruikshank and Mårten Blixt in 1996, and is a bold and beatutiful route with exposed climbing through the exit chimney/corner system.
Alternative start to Rune/Sjurs, for winters when there is little snow and ice.
Usually the most easily recognizable line up to the snow flank.
Easy but varied route with elements of thin gullies, snow and steep ice.
Newer version of Enevold/Kummenje with direct start.
Starts in the rightmost of two distinct steep gullies. Easy climbing on ice to begin with, but as the gully steepens it gradually gets harder. In some years the top of the gully is crowned with an icicle, but when the icicle has not formed completely, it is a few moves of aid (still not free climbed) through the roof to gain the ice. The first ascent avoided the steep icicle by bypassing it on the right. Easier climbing after that.
Begins in the leftmost of three gullies at the far right side of the wall. Travers left over snowfield and in to a steeper narrow gully that leads to the snowflank under the ridge top. Steep snow at the end.
You were reading right, Doug Scott teamed up with our local hero Sjur Nesheim to bag this first ascent.
The true classic Grøtfjord test piece, a must for the aspiring alpinist. Starts with a full pitch of 70-80° alpine ice in the middle of the wall that ends on a snowy ramp leading left. The final pitch is on the slab to the right of the direct line, thin ice that usually takes scarce protection. The apt description by the first ascentionists is very true: surpringsly beautiful! A direct finish byØ. Cruikshank and B. Solbakk follows the steep gully at the end straight up.
Follows the gully in the left side of the wall.
Start by circumventing a roof (sometimes carrying an icicle) on the left side, then up on 40-50° snow with some short steeper sections. Finish through narrow gully with vertical climbing sequences.
Start on the left side of the wall in a narrow gully to the right of the large gorge. Travers right 2 pitches then up on moderately steep alpine ice and snow. The climbing then steepens (70-80°) and gets narrower. Then travers slightly rights on a large ledge and enter a gully leading to the top.
Outlines the right side of the main north face. Traverse left on a ledge midways up the wall, and then heads slightly right over steep bulge and thin alpine ice (crux). Follows the ridge to the top. Easy climbing in moderate terrain with one difficult section.