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Lost & Found

Added by Mårten Blixt

  • Fylke

    Troms

  • Område

    Kvaløya

  • Fjell

    Blåmann

  • Type

    Mountain/Alpine

  • Length (m)

    7 taulengder

  • Steepness degrees

    0 degrees

  • Utstyr

    Naturlig

  • Aid grad

    A3

The route starts between Atlantis and Bongo Bar about 10 meters left from the anchor of the fixed rope. There are a few big loose blocks on the very beginning. Gear: Full aid gear: cams, nuts, heads, peckers and hooks. Big camalots (new #4 and #5) can be useful. There is no drilled protection on the route. We needed to place some heads. Pitch 1: A3, 50 m: Climb left below small roofs and make a few delicate aid moves to reach a thin crack above the roofs. Do not go to a left facing dihedral on the left hand side. Climb the thin crack and traverse to the right below the small roof. After the traverse first climb up and then slightly to the left. Make the first belay on the good crack where an old rope is hanging. Pitch 2: A2+, 50 m: Climb up the crack a few more meters and then traverse right to reach a crack system going up. Take always the crack on the right hand side. FA team made a hook pendulum to left in level of the big tooth (a rock feature right of the banana shaped roof). (It could be also possible to go straight up but the flake after a small roof might be loose.) After pendulum climb an overhanging dihedral and make an anchor under a big roof. It?s a good place for a portaledge. Pitch 3: C1, 15 m: Traverse left under the big roof and around the corner of the roof. Follow a short and easy crack to reach a ledge at the bottom of a great looking dihedral. Pitch 4: 6, 55 m: Climb up the great dihedral to the bivouac ledge of Atlantis. From the bivouac ledge you can see the next two pitches in the corner of a long, great dihedral. Pitch 5: A1+ 4, 50 m: From the bivouac ledge climb first up and then left on to the dihedral. Climb up along the dihedral on a chimney, past a small good ledge and then make the fifth belay into another chimney above it. Pitch 6: A2, 55 m: Climb the rest of the chimney and then a dihedral to reach a very nice overhanging wall. Climb the overhang and then take the dihedral on the right hand side. The sixth belay is under a small roof in the end of the dihedral. A good place for a portaledge. Pitch 7: C1 4, 60 m: Traverse left under the roof and then go straight up. Keep the first big ledge on right hand side and the second on left. A few free moves make climbing more comfortable. Take the exit over the outwardly positioned choke stones.