Starts in the rightmost of two distinct steep gullies. Easy climbing on ice to begin with, but as the gully steepens it gradually gets harder. In some years the top of the gully is crowned with an icicle, but when the icicle has not formed completely, it is a few moves of aid (still not free climbed) through the roof to gain the ice. The first ascent avoided the steep icicle by bypassing it on the right. Easier climbing after that.