Arkiv

Ersfjordtraversen

Frode did the travers without rope and protection in 1978 in only 11 hours, but expect to use significantly longer time. A small rack and a rope is necessary. Today the travers is a popular winter outing. «p» Head towards the top of Skamtind (884 m) from Rekvik, the last part involves some easier scrambling. Continue north-eastward over a slightly lower top (863 m), a short rappel might be necessary. Then continue in easier terrain over a 810 m top, and follow the ridge as it turns more soutward over tops that are 724 and 754 m high. Then the ridge goes up-, and more north-wards, again, over a 866 m high top before you go over the pass beneath the peak of Storstolpan (974 m). To go straight up to Storstolpan requires climbing of around grade 3-4, this can be avoided be taking a short detour north. About 300 m north of the peak is an easier way. Continue eastwards over the different peaks of Storstolpan, in relatively easy terrain towards Store Hollenderan (1017 m). The peak is gained easiest from the ridge south of the top, and the way over Revbergtinden to Brattbergtinden is an easy walk. Brattbergtinden consists of three pinnacles, of which the two to the west gives climbing at grade 3, while the east-most is more difficult but it can be avoided by passing just north of it. Melketind and Vågstind presents simple scrambling, and are the final obstacles before an relaxing break at the climbers cabin in Hollenderan. Summer time I suggest you climb the ridge (Zapffeegga) on Zapffetoppen (around grade 4) instead of taking the easier, but very loose, gully (Zapfferenna). From Zapffetoppen to Blåmann is an enjoyable and easy hike combined with some fun scrambling. From the top of Blåmann take the normal hike down.

Ersfjordtraversen

Frode did the travers without rope and protection in 1978 in only 11 hours, but expect to use significantly longer time. A small rack and a rope is necessary. Today the travers is a popular winter outing. «p» Head towards the top of Skamtind (884 m) from Rekvik, the last part involves some easier scrambling. Continue north-eastward over a slightly lower top (863 m), a short rappel might be necessary. Then continue in easier terrain over a 810 m top, and follow the ridge as it turns more soutward over tops that are 724 and 754 m high. Then the ridge goes up-, and more north-wards, again, over a 866 m high top before you go over the pass beneath the peak of Storstolpan (974 m). To go straight up to Storstolpan requires climbing of around grade 3-4, this can be avoided be taking a short detour north. About 300 m north of the peak is an easier way. Continue eastwards over the different peaks of Storstolpan, in relatively easy terrain towards Store Hollenderan (1017 m). The peak is gained easiest from the ridge south of the top, and the way over Revbergtinden to Brattbergtinden is an easy walk. Brattbergtinden consists of three pinnacles, of which the two to the west gives climbing at grade 3, while the east-most is more difficult but it can be avoided by passing just north of it. Melketind and Vågstind presents simple scrambling, and are the final obstacles before an relaxing break at the climbers cabin in Hollenderan. Summer time I suggest you climb the ridge (Zapffeegga) on Zapffetoppen (around grade 4) instead of taking the easier, but very loose, gully (Zapfferenna). From Zapffetoppen to Blåmann is an enjoyable and easy hike combined with some fun scrambling. From the top of Blåmann take the normal hike down.

Soria Moria traversen

Climb the south-west ridge of Sydlige Småtind, or follow the gully for an easier version. The ridge requires some climbing and protection is needed. From the top of Sydlige Småtind the travers over to Storsteinnestind is easy and fun. Either return via the first ridge towards Kattfjordeidet and the parking lot (about 6-12 hours round trip), or continue around the next cirque around the lake at 561 m. before returning (add a few hours). An easy and pleasant variant is to do the last cirque around the 561 m. lake only.

Helvetesveita

Takes the distinct gully in the middle of the east face, but avoids the last steep section by heading right at the end. The bottom part of the gully is just a steep walk (the most part of the route was skied down by Mårten Blixt and Kjetil Longva in 1998), and the first ascentionists only roped up the last five pitches. Finish with snow flank to the right.

Hvit dame tatt av gribben

Original route starts far right on same ledge as Tårnpilaren, and follows a clear, thin and steep couloir that sweeps gently right. The original route finishes of by traversing right on a snow flank a few pitches below the top, and thereby avoiding the steepest section. The direct line, bottom to top, was climbed by Øystein Cruikshank and Mårten Blixt in 1996, and is a bold and beatutiful route with exposed climbing through the exit chimney/corner system.

Frodor

Starts in the rightmost of two distinct steep gullies. Easy climbing on ice to begin with, but as the gully steepens it gradually gets harder. In some years the top of the gully is crowned with an icicle, but when the icicle has not formed completely, it is a few moves of aid (still not free climbed) through the roof to gain the ice. The first ascent avoided the steep icicle by bypassing it on the right. Easier climbing after that.