Arkiv

Belgisk Sjokolade

Rute starter rundt hjørnet til høyre fra hvor ‘Sjokoladefabrikken’ starter. Flaket på fabrikken ble ansett som løst og den nye ruta kan brukes som alternativ start.

Hver taulengde sluter på en gresshylle. Crux taulengde har en siste flytt som ikke ble gått i fri, men vi tror at den går i fri på 7+/8-.

Kan være lurt å ta med stålbørst for å rense crux lengde.

Vi gikk ikke til toppen men valgte å følge hylla til venstre og komme oss ned igjen. Fra siste standplass går det an å klatre på ‘Sjokoladefabrikken’

Goodbye High School

Route between routes ,,Celebrian? nad ,,Hoestgull?. Bold climbing in huge glacier-created slab! Reguiring good route-finding skills. Great finger cracks, laybacks, corners and slabs. Very nice, but also dangerous and scary! Warning: 7th pitch (crux) is really dangerous and efectivelly unprotected! Route was made without any piton. Last three pitches are like a gift: great rock and well-protected. Descent is pretty complicated, a lot of scrambling, some abseils. It goes direction Vagakallen summit.

Hungry Eyes

Slabby climbing in very good rock (structured like Piz Badile in Switzerland!). The crux is overhanging crack with few metres of aiding. Some friction-pitches are with poor protection. Pitons are very useful! Descent is really awful! Follow grassy ledges in west direction, then ridge. After this two abseils down to the pass.

Sound of Waves

Beautiful slabby climbing in amazing landscape above huge beach Horseide! A lot of friction moves and very poor protection! Some pitches are extremely bold but crux is well-protected. Knife pitons are very useful! Descent is easy: scrambling along the ridge direction south to the second pass then down direction west in grassy slopes.

Sweet Home Moravia

Elegant climb in excellent ,,Chamonix? rock! One of the best routes on Lofoten! Very sustained, with interesting free climbing and exciting aiding (pitons are necessary!). First pitch is very scary but the rest of the route is well-protected. Descent: to the little pass between higher and lower summit, then follow grassy ledges in east face to its end. Then one small (20m) abseil and easy scrambling direct down.

Ticket to Greenland

Super-steep corner and layback climbing! Very sustained, strenght but well-protected. In middle part (pitch #6-8) is worse rock. Pitches #4 and #10-12 are absolutely great, something like Vestpillaren! Unfortunately there is one point of aiding but quite smart and funny. Descent is easy direction south.

Första approximationen (First approximation)

Första approximationen (First Approximation), 7+, 130 m, Bunes   To the climbers right of the big gully right of the French Pillar is an attractive overhanging yellow wall capped by many roofs.

Approach: Traverse grass ledges leftwards from shoulder above the beach to the large flake that mark the start of the steep wall.(In the early 90’s Tommy Nilsson and Anders Lind approached the face straight up from the beach by climbing up to ledge at around 7- before retreating).

P1. 5, 10m. Climb up the left side of the big flake and take a stance with the ropes wrapped around the funky blade.

P2. 6, 30m. Keep walking up to the top of the flake and step over to the steep hand-crack. Climb the hand-crack on the jug-covered wall until it bends slightly to the right and take a belay standing on some decent footholds.

P3. 7+, 20m.  Straight up the crack until it closes, then traverse left on pockets to a thin crack (our leader took a fall here, the grade is estimated by the second who followed clean). Climb this and mantel up to a ledge. Here the courageous will keep going straight up where we walked left and made a belay.

P4. Easy, 70m. Scramble up the gully with the tail behind your legs.

Descent: Scramble down along a thin grass ledge across the slabs.  Harder when wet.   First Ascent: Joakim Söderström, Jonas Wiklund, July 27, 2010.

Första approximationen (First approximation)

Första approximationen (First approximation)

 

Stay Cool

Bold climb for commited and keen party. A lot of nice friction climbing in sea of slabs with bad protection. Pitches 8-10 are vegetated. Pegs are necessary! All cruxes seem to be more difficult than they really are… so stay cool!

Stay cool! official topo

Stay Cool

Stay cool! official photo

Stay cool