Ticket to Greenland

Super-steep corner and layback climbing! Very sustained, strenght but well-protected. In middle part (pitch #6-8) is worse rock. Pitches #4 and #10-12 are absolutely great, something like Vestpillaren! Unfortunately there is one point of aiding but quite smart and funny. Descent is easy direction south.

Första approximationen (First approximation)

Första approximationen (First Approximation), 7+, 130 m, Bunes   To the climbers right of the big gully right of the French Pillar is an attractive overhanging yellow wall capped by many roofs.

Approach: Traverse grass ledges leftwards from shoulder above the beach to the large flake that mark the start of the steep wall.(In the early 90’s Tommy Nilsson and Anders Lind approached the face straight up from the beach by climbing up to ledge at around 7- before retreating).

P1. 5, 10m. Climb up the left side of the big flake and take a stance with the ropes wrapped around the funky blade.

P2. 6, 30m. Keep walking up to the top of the flake and step over to the steep hand-crack. Climb the hand-crack on the jug-covered wall until it bends slightly to the right and take a belay standing on some decent footholds.

P3. 7+, 20m.  Straight up the crack until it closes, then traverse left on pockets to a thin crack (our leader took a fall here, the grade is estimated by the second who followed clean). Climb this and mantel up to a ledge. Here the courageous will keep going straight up where we walked left and made a belay.

P4. Easy, 70m. Scramble up the gully with the tail behind your legs.

Descent: Scramble down along a thin grass ledge across the slabs.  Harder when wet.   First Ascent: Joakim Söderström, Jonas Wiklund, July 27, 2010.

Första approximationen (First approximation)

Första approximationen (First approximation)