Arkiv

Sydpilaren

Route follows the south pillar and is relatively inhomogeneous, so many minor variations can be done on-route — making it more or less difficult. The lower part of the route consists of grassy ledges and seeking climbing, but it graudally improves. A couple of pitches below the top you reach a big ledge which you follow left (around the corner) and then one to two pitches of nice climbing straight up to the top. From the top, walk about 100 m straight north and you’re back on the main path. This is a perfect outing for a beginner level climber who seeks to practice his or hers route-finding skills.

Ultima Thule

Time: First ascent took 40 h. calculate around 20.
Gear: Portaledge, Some more small stuff, and perhaps some knifeblades. One extra friend in size 3 or 4 can come handy on the last pitch. The route follows the left end of the wall, a few meters further left the wall changes character dramatically.

  • 55 m, A1: Start by enjoying the finger crack in the left wall of the large right facing dihedral, pass a double roof on the left side and then continue straight up. Take stand in a horizontal crack a few meter below the «Nose».
  • 30 m, A1: Thin climbing up flaky terrain into the dihedral just right of the Nose, with stand on a small ledge.
  • 45 m, A1: Travers out right to a good crack, maybe easier done in free. Easy up the crack, pass a ledge and continue up a widening dihedral, stand.
  • 45 m, A1: Climb large dihedral, pass a roof on your left.
  • 60 m, A1: Climb the left crack covered wall of the dihedral, up to easy but akward terrain that leads you left to the routes first proper ledge. Enjoy the view.
  • 45 m, A1: Climb the right leaning crack up to a big roof. Travers out right to a wide crack.
  • Easy but akward and slippery to the top.

Livet under kniven

Time: 1st ascent took three and a half days. Calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, the normal set of Blåmann gear plus some extra stuff in the small category, a few birdbeaks and copperheads.

  • 40 m, A2: Begin in black dihedral between Atlantis and Ultima Thule. Look for «Kniven» (the «knife») on the second pitch, you should start in the plumb line right of this. Follow dihedral to a small overhang, travers out left and continue to a new overhang with a flake.
  • 30 m, A2: Climb left below roof, then a technical section follows into the dihedral right of «Kniven». Climb dihedral up where chimney starts, and swing out to stand. As a variant one can continue up the dihedral without any swing.
  • 45 m, A2: Continue same dihedral a few meters (A2) before swinging out to the chimney. Climb the chimney up to where a crack appears in the left face of the dihedral. Follow the crack up to a small roof, go right and up good crack.
  • 50 m, A1: From ledge climb up dihedral up to new ledge with a large rock. Continue slightly left up a tight dihedral, take stand on ledge.
  • 50 m, A1/A2: Climb steep and tight dihedral up to slab. Follow the rim of the slab up to where an overhanging crack in the dihedral wall begins. Climb crack up to small roof and travers right into a large (wet) dihedral that ends in a large roof. Travers left around the roof in tight cracks, and take poor stand below next small roof.
  • 40 m, C1: From stand, climb over edge, and continue cracks and dihedrals towards the top.
  • 30 m, C1: Climb up to large roof below the top, go left and follow the easiest path along the edge towards the top.

Atlantis

Per Hustad and Johan Nilsson free climbed the route (8-/8) in July 1990. This was a ground braking accomplishment at that time, but a ground-up — without pre-placed gear — complete free ascent still awaits. The two first pitches were free climbed in the early 80’ies by H.-C. Doseth. First winter ascent by Sjur Nesheim and Øystein Cruikschank in 1986. The route follow the main weakness in the wall just left of the top, and goes fairly straight up. Time: 20 h. (fastest ascent: 8h 15m)

  • 55 m, A1, 7/7+: Start by a block pile/pillar that leads up to a smal overhang. Pass a small ledge and continue up nice layback. Some loose rock.
  • 55 m, A1/A2, 8: Up layback to a slopy ledge below the the banana shaped overhang. Climb the thin crack system in the left wall. Thin acrobatic climbing.
  • 40 m, A1, 7/7+: Stamina requiring effort up the steep and long dihedral
  • 50 m, A1, 6+: Short travers out the bivy ledge, then straight up slightly easier terrain.
  • 30 m, A1, 8-: Another short travers/jump out on ledge. Then thin hard crack climbing up towards large chimney system.
  • 30 m, A1/A2, 6+: Wet offwidth climbing up the chimney. Belay on ledge.
  • 50 m, A1/A2, 7-: From right side of ledge, climb up serie of steep dihedrals.
  • 30 m, A1, 6+: Continue to the top.

Bongo Bar

Time: 1st ascent took nearly three days, calculate 1-2 days.
Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 4 Copperheads, 4 Knifeblades, 2 LA’s and one pecker. The route follows the steep pillar thaArctandria.

  • 50 m, A2, 1 copperhead, 1 L.A. 1 knifeblade: Begin right of the routes plumb line, exactly where the steep path joins the large ledge below the wall. Climb through a flaky overhang, then head slightly left to a small overhang, travers and then up. Change over to your right via a couple of delicate hook/fri moves to the bottom of a clear left-facing dihedral. Take stand at the top of the dihedral.
  • 50 m, A3, 1 pecker: «The Diamond pitch». Follow the next dihedral pass the «svarta tårarna» (black tears), up to a dihedral/crack system that leads to the left end of the big roof. 1 m to the right a thin crack leads through the roof. Continue up a dihedral and take stand on a sloping ledge.
  • 45 m, C1+/5-6: Climb up the thin bow and in to the large open dihedral, continue pass a large double ledge and a flake to a stand on a small ledge about where the dihedral changes to a chimney.
  • 45 m, C1/7: Climb out right to a vertical crack which leads to the pillar, round the corner. Follow the pillar via a crack system up to sloping ledge.
  • 60 m, C1+/7-: Follow right leaning crack system up to a small ledge below a slab. Travers left on an expanding flake at the top of the slab (better in free). Continue up along nice cracks to a double ledge and a good stand.
  • 50 m, 5+: Up the steep crack above the ledge, climb left in to a big steep dihedral. Over a ledge and through a gentle dihedral up to a giant ledge (stand) 10 m scrambling to the top.

Disko 2000

Time: 1st ascent took five days. However, the winter conditions steals time, and we only climbed during the few hours of daylight. 2 days is a better estimate for summer.
Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 10-20 Copperheads, 6 Knifeblades, 6 LA’s and 6 U-bolts, a few rurps and beaks, several hooks (bat hook to very large), 2 each of cams from #00 Metolius to #4 Camelot, 2 set of RP’s. (winter: 2 spectre).

  • 40 m, A1: The start (and the two first pitches) is shared with Arctandria. Look for a large dihedral, vertically aligned with the top, which reaches an obvious roof after about 90m. That beautiful dihedral is the first two pitches, and there are few possibilities of getting off-route here. Go for the ledge.
  • 50 m, A2, 2-5 copperheads, many #1-#2 friends: From the ledge, follow that small left-facing dihedral 3m, and then take a step right into the main dihedral. What now follows is a sustained and absolutely marvelous pitch up to the large obvious roof above. At the roof, there are 2 bolts, and Arctandria takes stand there, however, you should continue on the traverse to the left under the roof (Arctandria continues right of the roof), maybe you need to back-clean to have enough friends for the travers (A1). Take stand at the leftmost corner of the roof
  • 40 m, A2+, 5 copperheads, 4 bird-beaks/rurps, knifeblades, hooks and General Snus (Made in Sweden, only for addict’s): This is the crux-pitch of the route. Follow the «crack to seam to vague feature»-thing which brings you towards left and into the bottom of a left-faced dihedral. Go towards the roof, just below it the dihedral starts to fade away and its time for you to make a 3m pendulum to the left into the neighboring crack, bring a #2 Camelot on the swing. Again, start climbing towards the roof, but traverse left where the crack disappears, towards the leftmost corner of the roof. Now a section of steep climbing on dice placements follows through the series of small overhangs. We added 2 drilled 8mm bolts on this section. A thin seam takes you a bit rightwards again, to the belay stance (one 8mm and one 10mm bolt) a few meters short of the next roof.
  • 40 m, A1: Via a bathook you enter the small dihedral which is the door to the Kalk og Gummi-roof. Frightening at distance, the climbing proves to be easy through the roof. Where a crack provides plenty of possible placements. Next a right-faced dihedral brings you to a small roof which you traverse towards the right under, up and into a well protected maze of cracks and small overlaps that ends up in a clean crack. Make a stand where the crack ends and you obviously have to change to the crack left of you, use both to build the belay.
  • 35 m, A2: Climb up the dihedral/slot and continue in easy terrain through two right-faced short dihedrals. The last ends in a small roof, which you pass and enter a short crux section involving a hook and a copperhead before you enter a discontinuous shallow crack. After a few meters it gets better, but it soon fades away in the steep wall ahead of you, therefore you must make a pendulum (2m) to the dihedral right of you. Up that dihedral to where it ends in a roof, there you go right to a horizontal crack that cuts an obvious pillar. Build a belay, medium-sized U-bolts are useful. We placed a 8mm bolt to hang our portaledge from here.
  • 50 m, A1: Cross the pillar and into the right-faced dihedral, straightforward climbing up to a small ledge, continue through the small dihedral and crack up to a «block» upon which you find a small ledge in the bottom of a larger dihedral. Belay. «li» 50 m, A1: The dihedral starts out steep, but soon you should enter the crack that splits the right wall, and up to a large ledge (difficult to pass without the spectre’s in wintertime). Now a sloping dihedral leads you up a very steep short section, split by a good crack. Climb the following dihedral up to the small roof and make a stand.
  • 55 m, A1: Now you are partially forced into the steep chimney, summertime this might be easier to climb in free, so be prepared for a tight exit. Atop of the chimney a horizontal crack takes you right to a sloping ledge. From here you just follow the obvious line to the top. We drifted a bit towards the left, but maybe you can reach the Steinman at the top directly.

Arctandria

All pitches were free climbed by Didier Berthod and Giovanni Quinci in August 2005, but ground-up free ascent without any pre-placed gear remains undone. This is a classic aid route — one of the hardest in Norway in its time. The second pitch is a rare gem of solid continuous climbing, the best there is. Route begins with the very obvious open dihedral nearly straight down under the top, it then traverses right in two consequent large roofs. The route then goes slightly right to gain less steep terrain the last pitches. Time: 2-3 days. This is a tricky route, and people have drilled protection here, please do not continue this tradition. Bring copperheads, hooks and knifeblades.

  • 45 m, A1/A2, 8: Start up slightly flaky terrain, with a crux just before reaching a small roof. Go left of the roof, and up a beautiful layback to a stand on a fairly good ledge. Some old bolts on the belay.
  • 40 m, A2+, 9-/9: Up the very obvious and extremely attractive open dihedral. Dead solid but sparse with protection. Stand just right of first large roof.
  • 30 m, A1, 8/8+: Short pitch up to the huge roof, Tromsøflaket.
  • 20 m, A1, 9-: Travers right under the roof.
  • 15 m, A1, 8-: Short pitch up to the next large roof, which is kind of an inverted staircase.
  • 25 m, A2, 8+: Go right of inverted staircase up to the beginning of a large dihedral.
  • 50 m, A1/A2, 8: Climb large dihedral.
  • 25 m, A1/A2, 7+:
  • 25 m, A1/A2, 7-:
  • 50 m, A1/A2, 7: Long dihedral with roof at the top.
  • around 100 m, easy:

Lost & Found

The route starts between Atlantis and Bongo Bar about 10 meters left from the anchor of the fixed rope. There are a few big loose blocks on the very beginning. Gear: Full aid gear: cams, nuts, heads, peckers and hooks. Big camalots (new #4 and #5) can be useful. There is no drilled protection on the route. We needed to place some heads. Pitch 1: A3, 50 m: Climb left below small roofs and make a few delicate aid moves to reach a thin crack above the roofs. Do not go to a left facing dihedral on the left hand side. Climb the thin crack and traverse to the right below the small roof. After the traverse first climb up and then slightly to the left. Make the first belay on the good crack where an old rope is hanging. Pitch 2: A2+, 50 m: Climb up the crack a few more meters and then traverse right to reach a crack system going up. Take always the crack on the right hand side. FA team made a hook pendulum to left in level of the big tooth (a rock feature right of the banana shaped roof). (It could be also possible to go straight up but the flake after a small roof might be loose.) After pendulum climb an overhanging dihedral and make an anchor under a big roof. It?s a good place for a portaledge. Pitch 3: C1, 15 m: Traverse left under the big roof and around the corner of the roof. Follow a short and easy crack to reach a ledge at the bottom of a great looking dihedral. Pitch 4: 6, 55 m: Climb up the great dihedral to the bivouac ledge of Atlantis. From the bivouac ledge you can see the next two pitches in the corner of a long, great dihedral. Pitch 5: A1+ 4, 50 m: From the bivouac ledge climb first up and then left on to the dihedral. Climb up along the dihedral on a chimney, past a small good ledge and then make the fifth belay into another chimney above it. Pitch 6: A2, 55 m: Climb the rest of the chimney and then a dihedral to reach a very nice overhanging wall. Climb the overhang and then take the dihedral on the right hand side. The sixth belay is under a small roof in the end of the dihedral. A good place for a portaledge. Pitch 7: C1 4, 60 m: Traverse left under the roof and then go straight up. Keep the first big ledge on right hand side and the second on left. A few free moves make climbing more comfortable. Take the exit over the outwardly positioned choke stones.

Luna

Obvious line on the right side of the north face. Interesting and varied climbing, with some thin sections… Open and direct line without any major formations. First ascent by Ole Ivar Lied and Odd-Roar Wiik august 2010. 3 days used on the first ascent. 9 pitches of climbing, out of which 5 has  aid climbing. Bring plenty of beaks and peckers and everything in between to old style camalot 4,5.