Routes: Mountain/Alpine, Blåmann
12 results
Obvious line on the right side of the north face. Interesting and varied climbing, with some thin sections... Open and direct line without any major formations. First ascent by Ole Ivar Lied and Odd-Roar Wiik august 2010. 3 days used on the first...
Tingeling shares the two first pitches with Bongo Bar, and then traverses out left and joins Atlantis after some new pitches.This is the first route on Blåmann which has free ascent as its first ascent. Due to poor weather conditions, the route was...
The route starts between Atlantis and Bongo Bar about 10 meters left from the anchor of the fixed rope. There are a few big loose blocks on the very beginning. Gear: Full aid gear: cams, nuts, heads, peckers and hooks. Big camalots (new #4 and #5)...
Time: 1st ascent took 16 h. after two pitches were fixed. Gear: 60 m. rope, one knifeblade was placed during the 1st ascent, many small nuts are needed, 2 #4 Camalots are advisabel to bring (and a #6 LA perhaps). «ol» «/ol»
All pitches were free climbed by Didier Berthod and Giovanni Quinci in August 2005, but ground-up free ascent without any pre-placed gear remains undone. This is a classic aid route -- one of the hardest in Norway in its time. The second pitch is a...
Time: 1st ascent took five days. However, the winter conditions steals time, and we only climbed during the few hours of daylight. 2 days is a better estimate for summer. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 10-20 Copperheads, 6 Knifeblades, 6 LA's and 6...
Time: 1st ascent took nearly three days, calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 4 Copperheads, 4 Knifeblades, 2 LA's and one pecker. The route follows the steep pillar thaArctandria. «ol» «li» 50 m, A2, 1 copperhead, 1 L.A. 1...
Per Hustad and Johan Nilsson free climbed the route (8-/8) in July 1990. This was a ground braking accomplishment at that time, but a ground-up -- without pre-placed gear -- complete free ascent still awaits. The two first pitches were free...
Time: 1st ascent took three and a half days. Calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, the normal set of Blåmann gear plus some extra stuff in the small category, a few birdbeaks and copperheads. «ol» «li» 40 m, A2: Begin in black dihedral...
Time: First ascent took 40 h. calculate around 20. Gear: Portaledge, Some more small stuff, and perhaps some knifeblades. One extra friend in size 3 or 4 can come handy on the last pitch. The route follows the left end of the wall, a few meters...
Route follows the south pillar and is relatively inhomogeneous, so many minor variations can be done on-route -- making it more or less difficult. The lower part of the route consists of grassy ledges and seeking climbing, but it graudally improves...