Routes: Troms, Blåmann
10 results
The route starts between Atlantis and Bongo Bar about 10 meters left from the anchor of the fixed rope. There are a few big loose blocks on the very beginning. Gear: Full aid gear: cams, nuts, heads, peckers and hooks. Big camalots (new #4 and #5)...
Time: 1st ascent took 16 h. after two pitches were fixed. Gear: 60 m. rope, one knifeblade was placed during the 1st ascent, many small nuts are needed, 2 #4 Camalots are advisabel to bring (and a #6 LA perhaps). «ol» «/ol»
All pitches were free climbed by Didier Berthod and Giovanni Quinci in August 2005, but ground-up free ascent without any pre-placed gear remains undone. This is a classic aid route -- one of the hardest in Norway in its time. The second pitch is a...
Time: 1st ascent took five days. However, the winter conditions steals time, and we only climbed during the few hours of daylight. 2 days is a better estimate for summer. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 10-20 Copperheads, 6 Knifeblades, 6 LA's and 6...
Time: 1st ascent took nearly three days, calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 4 Copperheads, 4 Knifeblades, 2 LA's and one pecker. The route follows the steep pillar thaArctandria. «ol» «li» 50 m, A2, 1 copperhead, 1 L.A. 1...
Per Hustad and Johan Nilsson free climbed the route (8-/8) in July 1990. This was a ground braking accomplishment at that time, but a ground-up -- without pre-placed gear -- complete free ascent still awaits. The two first pitches were free...
Time: 1st ascent took three and a half days. Calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, the normal set of Blåmann gear plus some extra stuff in the small category, a few birdbeaks and copperheads. «ol» «li» 40 m, A2: Begin in black dihedral...
Time: First ascent took 40 h. calculate around 20. Gear: Portaledge, Some more small stuff, and perhaps some knifeblades. One extra friend in size 3 or 4 can come handy on the last pitch. The route follows the left end of the wall, a few meters...
Route follows the south pillar and is relatively inhomogeneous, so many minor variations can be done on-route -- making it more or less difficult. The lower part of the route consists of grassy ledges and seeking climbing, but it graudally improves...